
Standing for the farrier asks a great deal of a horse. A stranger picks up each foot, holds it at an unnatural angle, and applies pressure and noise to the hoof — all while the horse is asked to balance on three legs. For a flight animal, having a foot held is a vulnerable position, and it is hardly surprising that some horses object.
It helps to remember that most difficult behaviour comes from worry, discomfort or confusion rather than stubbornness. A young or unhandled horse simply has not learnt the skill yet. A horse that has previously been hurt, or had a foot dropped suddenly, may have learnt that pulling away works. And if a horse that has always stood quietly suddenly starts snatching, leaning or fidgeting, look for pain first — an abscess, laminitis, hock or back discomfort can all show up as farrier trouble. Ask your vet before assuming it is a training issue.
Train on level, non-slip ground with good light, ideally in a familiar yard or stable. Wear gloves and a hard hat for early sessions, and have a helper on hand if you can. Work in a headcollar and lead rope rather than a bridle, and never tie a horse up while you are teaching foot handling — if they pull back, they need to be able to move forwards without panicking.
Short and frequent beats long and heroic. Five to ten minutes daily will teach far more than an hour-long battle every weekend. Aim for calm and relaxed, not merely compliant: a horse that stands stiffly with a clamped jaw is not yet confident.
The farrier visit is really a test of basic manners, so build those first.
Start with a front foot. Run your hand down the leg, squeeze gently just above the fetlock, and use a quiet word such as "up". Ask for the smallest lift, hold for a second, and put the foot down before the horse takes it away. That is the whole secret: always release before they pull.
Build duration gradually — two seconds, five, ten, then thirty. Introduce the sensations the farrier will use: tap the hoof wall with a pick or a plastic mallet, then stroke a rasp across the wall once or twice. Ask a helper to hold the leg while you stand where the farrier stands, so the horse gets used to a person in that position. Practise on both sides.
Hind feet follow the same principle, but stand to the side and never drag the leg out behind. Bring it forward slightly and support it rather than stretching it, which is uncomfortable for many horses.
Reward the try, not just the finished job. Mark the moment the horse relaxes — a soft eye, a lowered head, licking and chewing — with a click or a quiet "good", then reward. Small, low-value rewards work best; a handful of chaff in a bucket is often better than a pocket full of carrots.
Be careful not to reward a snatched foot. If the horse yanks the leg down, wait a beat, ask again, and reward a quieter attempt. And do not feed while you are holding the hoof, or you will teach the horse to pull away to get the treat.
Consistency matters more than biscuits. Everyone who handles the horse should use the same cue and the same approach, so the message does not change with the person.
Book regular appointments — every six to eight weeks suits most horses — and keep the same farrier where possible. Horses learn routines faster than commands. On the day, bring the horse in early, pick out the feet, and avoid a large hard feed beforehand. A haynet within reach can help a horse who finds standing still hard.
Tell the farrier what you have been practising and ask them to work in short bursts, putting the foot down between stages and allowing you to reward. Young horses often do better with two shorter visits than one long one. If your horse rears, strikes or pulls away dangerously, stop and get experienced help; there is no shame in sedation to break the cycle, and it can make training possible again.
Hi, my name is Anthony kuber. I am artist and fashion designer.
I love to travel and writing blogging.
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *